Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Seals, Skuas, And Penguins Oh My


Here's my New Years resolution... more writing, less excuses. At long last the silence is broken. You are probably wondering what Dave and I have been up to down here in the deep, deep south. It has been a busy couple of months for the USAP. Lots to do and a shorter season to do it in--thanks again, Congress. We have been working hard opening--and now closing--field camps on and around Ross Island, in the Dry Valleys, and in the heart of the continent. There, of course, has been a long honey-do-list for projects here in McMurdo. Minor projects, building renovations, and boxes, always more boxes, are being worked on in between flights to field camps.
McMurdo From The Air
 
 


Cape Royds is twenty-three miles north of McMurdo Station on the western side of Ross Island and is the location of Shakleton's Hut. The hut was built by Ernest Shakleton and his crew during their 1907-1909 expedition.
Royds has been my favorite destination this season for several reasons. Apart from getting to tour the hut and walk along the open waters of McMurdo Bay, I also had the privilege to spend a few hours observing a large colony of Adelie Penguins. A few hours could have easily turned into several days if I had my way. Their anthropomorphic mannerisms were endearing to me--reminding me more of small, awkward children in tuxedos rather than nesting sea birds.
 
 I watched them commute back and forth from the water's edge to feed--waddling precariously with their little flightless wings held out wide for balance. I saw several male Adelies collecting stones for their nesting mates--a technique used to impress their special lady friends. One Adelie in particular caught my eye as he made his way from one nest to another, slyly stealing rocks while no one was looking. On a few occasions he was caught, and loud protesting squawks would break out while he proceeded to "run" with the rock held high in his beak, dodging angry pecks along the way. It never deterred him from going back for more.
 
Another great moment was when I witnessed the exchange of an egg between two parents. It started as a greeting--necks held high they "talked" loudly to each other. Next, they hugged--or what I thought looked like a penguin hug. They held their bodies close and weaved their heads up and down. After two or three minutes of noisy preliminaries they stopped talking and hugging and quietly and quickly swapped the egg--the male waddling up close, lifting the feathered folds of his tux to accept the small, shelled promise of life. It was a wonderful sight. The female then proceeded to bolt for the open water--fish and freedom most likely on her mind.
 
Penguins weren't the only inhabitants of Cape Royds. Plump Weddell Seals with their fuzzy young occupied the ice shelves. Every so often they would roll their slug-like bodies over to warm their backs or bellies.
 
 
 
 
 









There were also many skuas lingering in the area--no doubt waiting to capitalize on a free meal. I have seen many skuas around McMurdo Station but never so concentrated as they were at Cape Royds. It was Skua Central.



 

 
 

Dave has had some adventures of his own. He opened a camp in the dry valleys, spent a week in the deep field at CRESIS, and just recently spent the day flying around Wright Valley visiting camps at Bull Pass and Mt Newell. His next big adventure will be closing down a camp on Taylor Glacier--the same camp I set up, and topic of my next blog. Their will be plenty of pictures, I promise.
 
Happy New Years to every one back home. Have a wonderful and safe holiday. Dave and I are looking forward to another wonderful, adventure filled year.

Saturday, November 30, 2013

Videos

Sorry the videos didn't work initially, but I got one up and running. Check it out in the last blog post. Hope everyone had a wonderful holiday!

--Jenna

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Happy Thanksgiving From Antarctica

Happy Thanksgiving From McMurdo Station!

 For those of you who didn't get the memo: yes, we did make it back to McMurdo... barely. It was a stressful month with the government shut-down debacle. We actually learned that our positions were axed at the airport on our way to Christchurch, New Zealand. Nothing like finding out you lost your job from a flight attendant. Long story short, (you all watch the news) we got our jobs back and are here in McMurdo getting back into the Antarctic groove.

I know many of you have been waiting for this blog post and expecting it weeks ago--sorry. I have a lot of pictures and a few stories to report. Like my three day trip to Taylor Glacier where I camped and set up a rac tent right ON the glacier; My trip to Cape Roids--a penguin rookery; And some close encounters of the seal-kind on sea ice patrol. Lots to tell and I promise I will, but for now, cut me some slack I woke up at 5 AM just so I could post these videos for you. Uploading and downloading photos and videos are pretty much impossible during the day because of all the computer users and the limited bandwith. So there you have it--a special Thanksgiving gift from me to you. I am thankful for all of you in my life. I appreciate all the love and support. For those of you I don't know personally who are reading this, thanks for checking out the blog. 

More to come, but for now enjoy our little presentation. I'm going to drink some coffee.

 
 
 

Sunday, June 9, 2013

June 9th, 2013: The Last Stop

Hello friends and family,

Here we are in Colombia--our last stop before heading home to the good ole U.S. of A. With less than three weeks left of our South American adventure I am beginning to wear down and get a little tired. I know most of you will argue that I have been on a four month vacation and that I should be rested and tranquilo. Let me put it like this: traveling is like playing a game of soccer. It is fun, so much fun, and by the end of the ninety minutes you always want to play more. But, if you played hard and with heart you usually feel the bodily effects and the need to recover.

I heard the end of regulation whistle two days ago when we spent a solid twenty-four hours in a janky little bus traveling from the Ecuadorian orient to Cali, Colombia. Up to this point busing has been no problem. After our first twenty-eight hour bus trip all the rest seemed short in comparison. No big deal. But this last ride was rough. Dave´s frustration was with the bus company itself, who, in the process of bartering and obtaining our business, was more than a little dishonest about the time it would take to get to Cali. Dave equates it with running a half marathon. Mentally you can handle the distance because you know you have exactly 13.1 miles to run. But tack on an extra ten miles after you crossed, what you thought, was the finish line and it´s a slap in the face. Maybe it was the extra mileage, or the lack of AC, limited reclining seats, the crying baby, or the 100% humidity, but I caught myself, on more than one occasion, thinking about being back in Missoula, reclining (with Manny by my side) on the couch in our cool, cozy little living room, eating an endless bowl of ice cream.

After a good night´s rest and some food and coffee I am back in the game. That was our last long (depending our your definition of long) bus ride. From Cali we are ¡flying! to Cartegena and the Caribbean coast where we will live a beach-bum lifestyle for the next two and a half weeks. When our time expires we will fly to Bogota and from there onto Los Angeles. It´s funny, the first time I flew to L.A. airport it turned me off by its size and mass crowds of people. Now, after being habitually conditioned as the magical gate for international travel and adventure, as well as the doorway back home, it is my favorite airport--next to Missoula, of course. You can´t beat all the grizzly bear and elk artwork, as well as having to go outside to board your plane. This may sound silly, but LAX has a little extra sentiment due to the fact that it is the first place Dave and I started to get to know each other on our way to Antarctica. He had a reuben sandwich and I had chicken...

Uh hum. Anyways, we arrive in LA close to midnight. We will rent a car and head to San Diego for a few days of shenanigans and surfing before flying to the Northwest (I am so grateful we don´t have to take a bus) to spend the Independence Day holiday with Dave´s wonderful family. Shortly after, a flight east will take us to Ohio/Pennsylvania for my cousin´s wedding and for a few days with my own wonderful family. From Ohio, back to the Northwest, and onto Montana and home. So you see, our adventure doesn´t exactly end in two and a half weeks.

I know this post is not what most of you wanted or expected. ¨Blah, blah, blah. Tell us more about Ecuador or Bolivia.¨ I understand that, with limited blog posts, I have left most of you blind and curious over the last four months. Writing is a funny thing. Some times the words pour out of you, unrestricted and uninhibited, and at other times they hit a wall. It is something that I have never been able to force, and being a self-serving being, I usually don´t try at the risk of frustration and boredom. My time in South America has been full of stories wanting to be told. Funny stories, exciting stories, shocking stories. Looking back at all the places we have seen, people we have met, and adventures we have experienced, the stories could fill pages. And they will. In due time. Some times they have to sit and cultivate and stew in my mind before they are ready to be presented and consumed. This summer, when I arrive back at home, I will start the process of sharing these experiences. For now, don´t be too harsh on this weary traveler. 

I am looking forward to seeing you all very soon. 

With love from Colombia,

Jenna

Thursday, May 2, 2013

May 2, 2013: South America Photographs

All photographs are memento mori. To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s (or thing’s) mortality, vulnerability, mutability. Precisely by slicing out this moment and freezing it, all photographs testify to time’s relentless melt.  --Susan Sontag


Studying the map
Cerro Castillo, Chile

Hiking through the mountain pass
Waterfalls and Glaciers

Walking over a glacier
The Carretera Austral--we walked and hitch hiked the entire road (770 miles)
The fire master

Feeding a stray

Looking down on the valley from the top of Cerro Castillo
Pasta Night








Crossing Lake O´Higgins



Lima, Peru
Water Crossing



Mendoza, Argentina
 Doing the dishes













Mendoza Wine Tour
Grapes straight off the vine


Hiking to Argentina

La Paz, Bolivia

Train Graveyard in Bolivia
8...9...10!
Yet another water crossing


Mirar Flores, Peru
Dave and a glacier


The Futa!!!



Dinner



At the take out

Dave standing over the Futaleufu River


Catfish... not exactly a piranha


2 AM security stop... looking stylish, I know

Observatory in La Serena, Chile
Chaitan, Chile
Lima, Peru

De Rio Futa

Hanging out Playing cribbage in our tent

Quite disappointed with South America´s coffee.
Paddle captain

Enjoying some easy water before the next rapid

Another boat crossing
Castillo






Rainbow over the Cerro Castillo



A small port town in southern Patagonia



Dave being Dave
Cheeks full of Coca Leaves


About to roast some bratz




Marselo trying to sike me out at the put-in






Bussing our way through Bolivia



Cutting Dave´s curly locks... it turned out well

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
My lil´ninja
Cribbage--our favorite past time
Cutting up veggies for a salad


El Chalten, Argentina
It was a crazy, windy day
El Chalten
Castillo--¨Castle¨ in Spanish... you can see where it gets its name


Edible Patagonia berries





Peru
It´s hard to put the camera down in this place

Dave straddling the border of Chile and Argentina--nice socks


Villa Cerro Castillo



These guys were every where in the Pampas

An amazing hike from Villa O´Higgins, Chile to El Chalten, Argentina
Another boat-crossing shot... we took a lot of boats in Chile

You can look at a picture for a week and never think of it again. You can also look at a picture for a second and think of it all your life. --Joan MirĂ³