October 5, 2012: Welcome To Mactown!

The sun will set for the last time (this year) on Oct 24th

We were greeted by blue skies and a brilliant sun as we funneled out of our C-17 and into the cold, Antarctic air. Ice crystals danced and twirled around us and sparkled brilliantly when touched by the sun. Weighed down by bags and our ECW (extreme cold weather) gear, we wobbled across the sea ice--like big, awkward penguins--to the deltas that waited to take us to McMurdo Station. Deltas are land traverse vehicles that are monstrous in size--every little boy's dream Tonka. They have tracked wheels designed specifically for the arctic's deep snow and slippery ice. Getting into a delta can be a treacherous feat--climbing seven feet up the slick stairs/ladder wearing an extra 60 lbs of luggage and ECW gear is no easy task. 

The drive to the station was brief. We left the frozen sea, which spanned for miles in three directions, and drove onto a solid road that led us up the hill to McMurdo. The ground here consists of black, volcanic gravel that we've been told turns into black, volcanic mud come January when temperatures are at their warmest. On a side note: the day after we landed they closed the Ice Runway to incoming C-17s due to thinning ice. They moved the runway several miles away to Pegasus--a blue ice runway that can accommodate wheeled aircraft year round.

The station during a category 2 weather advisory

McMurdo Station or "Mactown" (which it is often called by its inhabitants or "townies") is just that, a small town--complete with post office, barbershop, library, convenience store, coffee shop, three gyms, two bars, one church, and a gear rental facility. With over a thousand-plus people in the summer season, this place sees a lot of traffic. The current population is 627, and it is hard to conceive of this number nearly doubling in size in a matter of weeks.

Dave and I are adjusting just fine. Compared to the Pole, station-life at Mactown is luxurious. We hit the jackpot by being issued dorm 209; a much sought-after living quarter that previously was obtained by seniority and tenure. Every once in a while we receive a frown and head-shake from a jaded McMurdo veteran as we enter or exit our home. Our room is large and spacious and is complete with a personal sink and mini-frig. We share a conjoined bathroom with two other people--quite a change from a Jamesway tent and communal outside bathroom. Did I mention that our dorm also has two lounges, a pool table, internet access, large laundry room and a sauna? Whoa. Instead of small increments of internet that would come and go with the passing satellite, we have have 24/7 internet connection. Everyone, upon request, are given TVs to put in their rooms. Several stations, including a few movie channels are broadcasted. Dave and I decided to forego the TV--there is too much to see and experience outside and free time is too precious. 

The weather started out warm. Well... warmer than at the South Pole. When we first arrived we donned hoodies, hats and gloves as we explored the town. The temperatures coasted in the teens (positive)--weather that we never experienced at the Pole. The heat-wave didn't last long. Day two we were hit with a category one weather advisory. I was six miles out of McMurdo at the Long Duration Balloon Project (LDB)--a study being funded by NASA--when the weather hit. We had to wait for an hour in our heated vehicle for the weather to get better before we were able to make the drive back to the station. I have never experienced winds at that speed before, or the total lack of visibility--it was a white-washed world.

Dave and I--standing on a frozen sea!

Dave and I are Carpenter Apprentices and we couldn't be more excited about our department. The perks of this new job are limitless. The first day we got to pick out our personal tools. I can equate this experience to going to Home Depot and pulling goodies off the shelf, whatever you want, for free! Our coworkers are "unique" characters, but among the best people on station. They are safety-minded and professional, but are quick to make jokes and have fun. We work in a warm, two-story building that smells like sawdust and freshly cut wood. On top of getting the satisfaction of completing projects with our hands and building things with powerful toys, we will get to travel and explore the continent via working at field sites. I can't wait to fly in a helicopter--for the first time--to one of these remote, sought-after locations.

The carp shop is set on top of McMurdo Hill and has the best view in town

In short, life is good. I will be writing in more detail about our adventures and day-to-day life. More pictures and stories to come. 

If any one is interested in writing me via snail mail I have included my station address. I would be more than happy to receive and send letters--a joy that is rarely experienced due to our age of technology. 

Jenna Witkowski, ASC
McMurdo Station
PSC 469 Box 700
APO AP 96599-1035